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A NEW SYSTEM /V//Q 



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C U T T I N G VESTS, 



BY THE SHOULDER MEASURE. g 



S . C . A il E S 



INVENTOR AND PUBLISHER. 



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BOSTON : 
PUBLISHED BY THE INVENT OK 
1864. 



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A NEW SYSTEM 



FOR 



CUTTING TESTS, 



BY THE SHOULDER MEASURE. 



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S . O . -A. M E S 

1WF.NTOR. AND PUBLISHER. 



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BOSTON: 

PUBLISHED BY THE INVENTOR. 
HX 1864. 





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NOTICE. 



It was my intention at first to have had but one square and one printed 
book of directions for drafting both Pants and Vest ; but changing ray mind 
in regard to the matter, I present them to you separate or together, as you 
may choose, which I hope will meet your approbation. 

S. C. AMES 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1864, by 

S . C. AMES, 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the District of Massachusetts. 

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NEW SYSTEM FOR CUTTING VESTS. 



DIRECTIONS FOR MEASURING. 

From back of neck, measure length of roll, say 10£ inches, and full length 
in front, 23£ inches ; in drafting add | or an inch for making up, then to 
waist above the hip to 10 on Diagram 5, say 20, and to full length over the 
hip to 11, say 22; then take breast, waist and hip measures, and the upper 
and lower shoulder measures, which are taken from top of back seam round 
under arm to starting point, and from between the shoulders on back seam 
round under arm to starting point. 

These measures will often vary from half an inch to an inch, and with some 
from l£ inches to 2 inches. Sometimes the upper shoulder measure is the 
larger, but oftener the lower one, but with a perfect form both measure the 
(same. For instance, say the breast measures 35, the upper and lower shoul- 
der would be 2G ; but it is often the case that the breast is 35 and the upper 
shoulder measure is 25 1*2, and the lower one 26 1-2 or 27, or the upper one 
26A and the lower one 25. Therefore, I only use the breast, waist and hip 
measures for the size of circumference, and a division of the upper and lower 
shoulder measures for the size and form of the shoulder. 



DIRECTIONS FOR DRAFTING. 

DlAGKAM 5. 

From to 2 is scale j upper shoulder. 
From to 3 is scale £ upper shoulder. 
From 3 to 4 is scale 9 upper shoulder. 
Square with line A, mark lines B, C, and D. 

From 4 to 6 is scale 8 lower shoulder. 
From to 6 is scale 10 lower shoulder. 
From 2 to 7 is scale £ lower shoulder. 
From 3 to S. is scale 9 lower shoulder. 
From 4 to 9 is scale £ breast, 
or from line A, to lower point of collar is the same, and for straight breasted 



vest from point 2 on line B, is scale £ breast. Measure from point 6 for 
length of roll, deducting width of top of back, which is scale 5 upper shoul- 
der, and to full length at point 13 and to 10 as waist, and to 11 as full length 
over the hip, 

From line A to 10 is 5 of an inch for every inch the breast is larger than 
the waist. From line A to 1 1 is 5 of an inch for every inch the breast is 
larger than the hip. 

From 10 to 12 is scale \ waist. 
From 11 to 13 is scale £ hip. 
Add for buttons and button-holes \ or f of an inch. For straight-breasted 
vest, cut as represented ; for double-breasted, add lapel from 9 and 13. 



BACK.— Diagram 6. 

From to 2 is scale 7 upper shoulder. 

From 2 to 3 is scale 8 upper shoulder. 

And if the upper and lower shoulder measures are not alike, from 3 to 2 

is scale 8 lower shoulder ; from 2 to top of back is scale 9. Let point 4 on 

forepart touch point 3 on back, and mark lengths 7 and 8 corresponding 

with 10 and 11 on forepart. Square with line A, mark lines B, C, D, and E. 

From to 4 is scale ^ upper shoulder. 

Lay on forepart to get point 5. 

From 3 to 6 is scale 8 breast. 
From 7 to 9 is scale 8 waist. 
From 8 to 10 is scale 8 hip. 



Shoulder measures to compare with those of the breast for regular 



proportions : 

BREAST 
MEASURE. 

23 
24 
25 
26 
.27 
28 
29 
30 
31 
32 
33 
34 
35 



IOULDER 


BREAST 


EASURE. 


MEASURE 


17 


36 


171 


37 


18£ 


38 


\n 


39 


20 


40 


201 


41 


2H 


42 


22| 


43 


23 


44 


23| 


45 


24£ 


46 


25| 


47 


26 


48 



SHOULDER 

MEASURE. 

26| 

27£ 

28£ 

29 

29| 

30£ 

3l£ 

32 

32| 

33£ 

34^ 

35 

35| 



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10 < 

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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



014 082 978 A 




L1BRA RY OF CONGRESS 




014 082 978 A # 



